Vinous - Score: 92 (2021 December)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is punchy and spry from the first tilt of the glass, featuring raspberry, roses, licorice and hints of flowery undergrowth. The bouquet darkens over time, taking on shades of cedar, along with blue and purple flowers. It’s silky, pliant and savory, masses of black cherry and spice filling the palate with silky textures that leave saturating minerals in their wake. This tapers off long, dry and primary, perfumed with violets and lavender, as cheek-puckering, tart red berries linger on. The 2017 may be a riper interpretation of Fuligni Brunello, but it has enough power and energy to be quite pleasurable and balanced over the medium term. All of the Riserva juice from 2017 went into the estate Brunello.